Mark of Excellence
It’s a scorcher outside but inside Masseto it is cool, plush and comforting. Owned by the those behind Premium Wines, the inconspicuous wine lounge and restaurant in Salcedo Village has already won the hearts of both the business crowd and, surprisingly to its owners, the ladies-who-lunch set. Wine glasses and bottles of the finest vintages in the refrigerated displays wink teasingly under the soft lighting.
Regulars at Masseto, senior managing director for ICCP Venture Partners Billy Valtos and his gregarious wife Eliza are here for lunch but to add to the festivity, the Culinary Institute of America-trained executive chef Tippi Rim- bunting and Rombit and Maja Olivares-Co and their sons have come to join the fray.
As the interior designer responsible for the cosy ambience, Maja chose a palette with wine colours and flavours such as Bordeaux, burgundy, champagne, rosé and chocolate for the chairs, carpeting and banquettes. An ode to wood is made by way of hardy teak flooring and a sculpture by the entrance by Claude Tayag. There is also a lovely pocket garden outside, which cleverly reflects in the bar mirror. “Just the little tricks. And, of course, Masseto boasts of its wine collection that’s hidden inside the bank vault. You think the best is outside—there’s more in there!” says Maja with a laugh. Converted from a bank, Masseto decided to store its most expensive wines in the vault-cuni-wine cave, such as a 73,000 peso bottle of Chateau Margaux. “Everyone who’s been involved here has one thing in common: a passion and love for food and wine. It’s been a fun experience:’ says Maja.
The guests are offered perfectly chilled glasses of bubbly Jacquesson Cuvee No 732 Brut. Billy came to know Masseto from “fellow wino” Maja and dines here about three times a week. “It helps that my office is one block away. It’s a place to enjoy very good wine with an ambience we can relax in on a frequent basis, complemented by Tippi’s personal touches and skills,” he says.
As more glasses of bubbly are poured the conversation gets louder, but thanks to Maja’s well thought-out interiors, the acoustics never become an issue—even with a roomful of diners. This is icing on the cake for the young-at- heart crowd. “I made the banquettes until ear level for that purpose and the carpeting helps out too;’ she explains.
The couple share the appetizers of Foie Gras Terrine with Pear Compote and Pumpkin Ravioli in Sage Butter and Parmesan Cheese and Billy takes on the role of serving. “This is pumpkin soup in a pouch. I just love the flavour and the ginger in it,” proclaims Eliza as she bites into the ravioli. “Masseto is all about freshness and respect for the food. You can really taste the high grade of semolina in the flour.” says Billy. Eliza thinks the foie gras melts in the mouth while Billy thinks it’s a great light starter.
After the appetizers, the mains are served; Spaghettini Bottarga, made with an Italian fish roe; Prawns Grilled with Cabbage and Gruyère Salad; Crispy Duck Leg with Roasted Potatoes and Sole in Brown Butter Lemon Sauce with French Beans, the latter being Billy favourite. “Talking about acoustics—is there something equivalent for smell?” asks Eliza as she inhales the aroma of the spaghettini. Add its texture and peppery goodness, the dish is an instant hit.
Glasses of Champalou Vouvray 2007 are poured, prompting a discussion of wine. Billy
learnt about wine when he was eight. “My father introduced me to his wine cellar and over the next few years, I was made to memorize the great vintage years and wines of Bordeaux,” he says. “For me, wine is a personal connection. No matter the cost, each wine has its own story.” He prefers most first and second growth Bordeauxs while Eliza enjoys vines such as Chateau Latour L’Evangile. “I don’t know the names of wines like Billy but my taste buds seem to have a memory,” says Eliza. “In short, we like everything, except ‘plunk,” adds her husband.
They continue to nibble on the other dishes. The duck leg skin is perfectly salty and crispy and its meat, succulent; the sole, beautifully browned. “Masseto doesn’t do too much to overcomplicate a dish and lets the heat and raw materials work together to come out with simple, well-seasoned, delicious dishes,” says Billy.
Its become late afternoon and the happily satiated couple enjoy the rest of their luscious white wine. “Dining here is a sensual experience.” says Eliza. “They say this is not a restaurant. I’m sorry, but I come here for the food.”
Philippine Tatler May 2010